Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, is a beautiful and unique place with a rich history, culture, and cuisine. For centuries, Sicily has been a crossroad between different civilizations, making it a melting pot of cultures, traditions, and architecture. Today, Sicily, Italy is known for many things. In this article, we will explore some of the most fascinating aspects of this beautiful island.
Sicily — Known for its Beauty
Sicily is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places on earth, with stunning beaches, crystal-clear waters, quaint towns, and breathtaking landscapes. From the majestic Mount Etna to the picturesque countryside, Sicily is a paradise for nature lovers.
Mount Etna
Hiking Mount Etna can be windy and cold. I would suggest bringing a warm jacket, gloves, thick socks, and hiking boots. The terrain is rough because it’s all volcanic soil. It is the most active volcano in Europe, and it just recently erupted again. We went in April and encountered low clouds. It’s best to go in May before the summer crowds descend on Italy.
We had not intended to hike Mount Etna. But after fighting with traffic in Palermo and Catania, we just had to get back to nature. The drive up to the parking lot, which takes you to about the 6,200-foot level, is picturesque. We started to relax with every turn.
The volcano is over 10,000 feet high. We hiked to just above the 7,000-foot level because the clouds had moved down to that level. We could hardly see anything with the clouds around us, and it was very cold!
Here are some of the photos we got. If you get up past 7,000 feet, it starts to look very lunar, especially if there are clouds.
The Quaint and Beautiful Alleys of Ortigia
Ortigia is the old town of Siracusa and is an island accessed from Siracusa (aka Syracuse) via a bridge across the water. You can drive cars there, but I would recommend you avoid doing this. Park in the parking lot on the island, but outside the town, and leave your vehicle there. You will reduce your stress and headaches by walking. But the alleys you walk down (and scooters scoot down) are pieces of artwork unto their own. It is a magical place, especially at night.
We stayed at a very nice B&B called Maison Ortigia. It was hard to find and hard to navigate to drop off our luggage, but we eventually got there. Here’s the location. When you stand here, the entrance is to the left of the cafe/bar/restaurant which is at the end of the building. A small directory posted on the right side of the entrance shows the floor you need to go to for Maison Ortigia.
The Crystal Clear Waters of Ortigia
Beyond the beautiful alleys, lay the beautiful waters. We just had to stick our toes in the Ionian Sea, but everywhere you look as you walk around the parameter of the island, you’ll see crystal clear water. Here are a couple of shots we got.
The Crystal Clear Waters of Taormina
Taormina is a lovely area of Sicily set on the east coast, but it’s very challenging to drive in, especially if you miss a crucial turn. We saw many people make the same mistake we did by skipping the first right turn. If you do that the navigator will take you down streets meant for pedestrians, and everyone will watch you try to turn around in unspeakably small places.
We stayed in an apartment above the street that runs in front of the main beach area, where you can walk out to Isola Bella. We had a stunning view of the sea and Isola Bella. The problem was the parking. There is nowhere to park except on the main street along the side. We got lucky and found a spot not too far to walk, but we had to pull our luggage along with us.
This place also happened to be set on the walkway to the old town, so there were lots of people walking up the many steps to get to the old town from the popular beach.
Here are some of the pictures we got that show a little of Taormina’s beautiful water.
Sicily — Known for its History
Sicily has a long and fascinating history, dating back to ancient times. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spanish, to name a few, have all left their mark on the island. These have combined to create a unique and diverse culture. Sicily is home to some of the most impressive historical sites in the world. These include the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis in Syracuse, and the Norman Palace and Quattro Canti in Palermo.
Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples
I have to say, I had no idea how big this place was. There are ruins and relics everywhere. It takes a long time to explore. Some of the ruins date back to the 6th Century BC. The Temple of Hercules (or Heracles) is believed to be the earliest of the ruins at Agrigento. When we went in April, it was hot. The good news is that they have a lovely cafe that serves lunch and ice cream. Here are the best of the photos we got.
Siracusa and the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis
This is a large and unique Archeological Park where excavations have taken place. Many artifacts have now reside at the Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi. The latter contains more than 18,000 artifacts dating back to the 7th Century BC. It is a mind-boggling museum with surprisingly well-preserved pieces.
Prepare yourself for field trips and tour buses full of people. When we were there, they were preparing the Greek Theatre for summer concerts. The acoustics are amazing. There are interesting caves built behind the seating, which provide natural air conditioning when you walk into them. Some of the caves were originally burial vaults. We went to the Greek Theatre first because the field trips were leaving at about that time.
Greek Theatre
Next, we went to the Latomie Quarry which houses a series of grottos. The most impressive of the grottos is the Ear of Dionysis which was so named by Caravaggio when he noticed that the entrance resembled a very large ear. The acoustics here can be heard when there are a large group of people in the middle singing or jointly chanting or even just laughing and talking. I guess this is a benefit of having field trips visiting.
Here are some of the other grottos and parts of the Latomie Quarry.
Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum
We enjoyed visiting the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum, but there are so many relics to see, that it wears you out. We walked from the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis. But it is a wonder. Here are a few of the pictures I took inside.
The Roman Amphitheater
The Roman Amphitheater is located on the other side of the park. When you walk down the main walkway, it’s on the left; whereas the Greek Theatre and the Quarry are on the right.
The Romans used the Amphitheater as an arena for entertainment. They brought in animals and gladiators to fight them and each other, and you can still see where the fighters were kept. But the streets of Ortigia were the recipients of a lot of the stone from the Roman Amphitheater.
The Norman Palace – Palermo
The Norman Palace houses the Palatine Chapel which was the Royal chapel of the Norman kings. For this reason, there is generally a long line to get in. There was while we were there. The Palatine Chapel is famous for its mosaics. Since we didn’t have a lot of time, we sought mosaics elsewhere and were very impressed. But here is the outside of the Norman Palace.
La Martorana (Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) – Palermo
La Martorana (Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio) or Church of St. Mary of the Admiral contains an amazing collection of mosaic murals. They’re everywhere – the ceiling, the walls, and the archways And, they’re in spectacular condition. You have to see them in person. Bonus: there’s no line!
Sicily — Known for its Cuisine
Sicilian cuisine is one of the most delicious and diverse in Italy. The island’s rich history and culture have influenced its food, resulting in a unique blend of flavors, aromas, and textures. From the famous cannolo and cassata to the mouth-watering arancini and pasta alla Norma, Sicilian cuisine is a delight for foodies. For us, it was all about the seafood, well, and one cannolo.
Best Cuisine – Palermo
While we were in Palermo, we ate at a number of good places. But, we found, throughout Italy, that if you could find the places where Mama was cooking and you felt like you were in her kitchen, those were the best!
Best Lunch – Sample Plates at Mercato di Ballaro in Palermo
One of the places we had this feeling was in the Mercato di Ballarò (Ballarò Market). The first Italian word you’ll need to know is, “prego,” which means, “please,” as in, “please come buy something, we have something you need.” The amazing aromas knock you over, while the crowds of people keep you moving. We found this stand to be one of the most enticing. They displayed sample plates. If you saw something you wanted, you pointed at it, and they’d get you a plate. Or, rather, the man would ask his Mama to get what we had pointed to. We chose an octopus plate and a eggplant parmesan dish. Both were delicious.
Best Dinner – Odori e Sapori al Vecchi Monte in Palermo
On our second visit to Palermo, we found a place that contained Mama’s kitchen, and we felt like we were in it. The name of the restaurant is, “Odori e Sapori al Vecchio Monte.” Translated, it means, “Smells and Flavors of the Old Mountain.” We found the most delectable food here, and Mama was cooking it. Here are some pics of our meals there.
Best Cuisine – Ortigia/Siracusa
On this particular day, we grabbed lunch at the Gusto Ortigia Market recommended by Rick Steve’s in his Sicily guidebook from 2022. We tried to go to the other recommended deli market first, Salumeria Roma, but it was permanently closed. The only review we could find was from four years ago. I guess the guidebook isn’t quite up to date. After we ate half of our delicious sandwiches from the deli – they were too big to eat the whole thing in one sitting – we walked past a place called Ristorante Jobi, which looked intriguing. More on that in a minute. First, a cannolo.
Best Dessert/Sweet Snack – Cannoli in Ortigia
After walking our modified Ortigia walk, Rick was in the mood for a cannolo. We happened upon Za Bar that had cannoli and many other delictable items. Here are some photos from Za Bar.
Best Lunch – Panineria Da “Pyter” in Siracusa
You know you’ve found the best spot when the locals are lining up for it. We found this panini place when we were walking from the Parco Archeologico della Neapolis to the Museo to the Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi. This was our second day in Siracusa. You’ll need to brush up on your Italian ’cause the proprietors don’t always speak English. If you get here and don’t know any Italian, you can always point at what you want on your panini. There is a big glass window on the side of the restaurant where you can see what available items are for your panini. It takes a little bit to get everything put together, but oh, when you get it, it’s the best! Also, you’ll have the company of a couple of hungry cats.
Best Dinner – Ristorante Jobi in Ortigia
After scoping out Ristorante Jobi the day before, we stopped in for dinner. The proprietor and his wife were serving everyone. It was pretty busy. But they took the time to make sure we ordered the right wine based on our likes and had us taste it. If we didn’t like it, he opened the next one based on our review of the prior one. I ordered the incomparable Almond Crusted Sea Bass. Rick had Roasted Swordfish, and we ate Mussels as our appetizer. Fanus, Syrah Nero D’Avola, which is a red wine, won our informal competition. Vivino.com says this wine is an, “Original blend that combines the spicy tones of Syrah with the color and alcoholic character of Nero d’Avola. Persistent, velvety with hints of blackberries and cherries.”
Here are some of the photos we got at Ristorante Jobi.
Sicily — Known for its Culture
Sicily has a vibrant and colorful culture, with a strong sense of community and family values. Traditional festivals, such as the Feast of Saint Agatha in Catania and the Infiorata in Noto, are an essential part of Sicilian culture and attract visitors from all over the world. Music, art, and literature are also an integral part of Sicilian culture, with famous artists and writers such as Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa and Renato Guttuso.
Music in Palermo
Unfortunately, while we were there, festivals weren’t; but we did enjoy some music and art. At one point on our city walk in Palermo, we went to Quattro Canti, also known as the Four Corners. You can read more about the Four Corners here. But while we were there, a musician/singer was playing/singing beautiful Italian music. This, for us, spoke Italy to us more than anything else throughout the country. Here, we were standing in the middle of the square, captivated by the scene, the music and the statues. Although, a polizia was not too captivated with me for standing in the midst of traffic. I don’t know why they allow cars in this square.
Art in Siracusa
We also witnessed stunning artwork, most notably in the churches, in addition to the mosaics I mentioned earlier. My particular favorite is Caravaggio. While Caravaggio wasn’t from Sicily, he did spend some time there and earned a number of commissions. His paintings are particularly fascinating to me. I suppose it’s because he seeks to show people how they really appear and not some beautified version of how they should look. Again, the Sicily guidebook led us astray. It said that we could find the, “Burial of Santa Lucia,” in the historic center of Ortigia, in the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia, located in the central Piazza Duomo. Sadly, this was not the case. It moved to Basilica of Saint Lucia ‘al Sepolcro,’ which is in Siracusa proper. It’s in the long church building, not in the building that looks like a basilica, though. Messina and Palermo also have Caravaggio if you happen to be there. This website has the locations of his paintings, but look for each location below the paintings’ pictures for them.
Sicily — Known for its People
The Sicilian people exude warmth, hospitality, and passion for life. They are proud of their history, culture, and traditions and are always happy to share them with visitors. Sicily is a welcoming place, and visitors often feel like they are part of the family.
People of Palermo
Our first interaction with Marco introduced us to these features of Sicily’s people. We met Marco at a B&B called Operà . He met us very late at night after our plane had been delayed. We rented a car and went on our way to Palermo historic downtown. Thankfully, it was so late that there were few cars on the roadways. But there were so many cars parked everywhere, we got lost a couple of times. But then found our way to the B&B. He spent a lot of time telling us where to park. In the morning, we got a very animated, passionate introduction to Palermo and Sicily in general. Suffice it to say, Marco is concerned with the future of Sicily. He feels the old ways of operation are still at work (think Godfather here). And he feels his sons have no future in Sicily. However, every morning, Marco provided warmth and hospitality as well as passion. He provided one of the best homemade and creative breakfasts of all the places we stayed.
Passion in Palermo without Warmth and Hospitality
Passion can be expressed in all kinds of ways, and we saw the most extreme version of it on the roadway out of Palermo. Side note: Palermo is extremely challenging to drive in. We had already walked the area, so we knew what to expect. There’s a point at which six or more lanes converge and become fewer. At one point, a man in a black leather jacket and black jeans stopped his car, got out, ran up to another car, and animatedly screamed at the young driver to pull over and park. Unfortunately, the young man did. The guy in black leather ran up to the driver’s side, opened the door, and pulled the young man out. He then started choking him, holding him up by his neck off the ground, and then whipping him around in a circle by his man bun. At this point, about six men came out from businesses along the roadway to intervene. Pretty sure this is one of the cases where “the old ways of operation” kicked in. I was so overcome that the only picture I got was of the young victim after the aggressor had been pulled from him.
People of Taormina
In Taormina, we met a man who ran a wine bar/restaurant. Rick was looking for a specific type of wine and wanted to try the best of that variety. So, the man went into great detail about how the wine industry works in Italy and who gets which wines. Interesting, this sounded similar to Marco’s passionate rendering of how things work in Palermo. Basically, all the best wines go to Milan, and “the organization” determines the allotments.
We had an education on the wine industry from him which was later substantiated by a restaurant proprietor in Florence. This establishment in Taormina is called Ai Paladini Lounge Bar, and the man was very passionate about wine and introducing people to his favorites. We enjoyed talking with him and hearing his perspective. Here are some photos I got of the inside. Unfortunately, I was so taken with the discussion I didn’t get a picture of the proprietor. The lounge is located directly opposite the Isola Beach staircase.
Sicily — Known for its Filmography
Sicily is, of course, known for the Godfather movie series. I think its citizens would rather move on from that image though. They tend to want a proactive government that solves problems instead of relying on the “old ways of doing things,” which perpetuates the Godfather image.
But Sicily doesn’t seem able to escape it. Even one of the most recent shows set in Sicily has an element of it: “White Lotus.” If you haven’t seen season two yet, spoiler alert: the destitute gay men resort to gaining the assistance of the Organization to off the wealthy heiress so they can solve their money problems.
We poked around the San Domenico Palace, which is now a Four Seasons, and the location for the filming of season two of White Lotus, to the extent we were allowed. But the staff doesn’t let anyone not staying there into the hotel and interior courtyard. The location surrounding the hotel is stunning though. We walked up what seemed like a million steps to get to the old town where the San Domenico Palace/Four Seasons is. Along the way, Rick brushed his water bottle on the wall next to the path and the bottle sprung a leak. The wall was so rough, it sliced the bottle. When we asked the attendant at the Four Seasons where we could find another bottle of water, he gave us a Four Seasons water. Here are some pics of the outside.
Conclusion
Sicily is a unique and fascinating place, with a rich history, culture, cuisine, and film. From its stunning landscapes, and impressive historical sites, to its delicious food and its vibrant culture, Sicily has something for everyone. So, if you’re planning a trip to Italy, make sure to put Sicily on your bucket list.
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