Great Northwestern Motorcycle Trek

Trek: to make one’s way arduously, a slow or arduous journey

– Merriam-Webster

Day 1 – 06/09/22 El Dorado Hills, CA to Eugene, OR

Planned miles 511

Actual miles 544

Our Great Northwestern Motorcycle Trek started out rocky. Ah, the best-laid plans. Bike packed the night before, up early in the morning, and on the road.

Oops, still need to fuel up, then construction in Sacramento and just mistiming the distance had me 30 minutes late to rendezvous at Dunnigan Starbucks. When I arrived I saw Enes’s helmet but no Enes so I ordered a coffee and Double Smoked Bacon and Cheddar breakfast sandwich. Breakfast arrived just as Enes returned and said, “Ready to roll, I don’t tolerate heat.” Couldn’t blame him for being impatient. It was not a good start to our trip, and it was supposed to be very hot in Redding. So I devoured the sandwich and a couple of sips of coffee and saddled up.

Started the long roll north on I-5 toward Eugene, Oregon, still 442 miles away. You might be wondering “What all are they taking in those packs”? I created a packing list that includes everything we took that we needed, and I identified those things we took that I wouldn’t take again.

“There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it.”

– Charles Dudley Warner

To stay fresh and avoid stiff bones we agreed to stop every 100 miles or less. One of the great things about traveling with Enes is his love of good coffee. At stops where no services were available, he would break out his small propane backpacking burner and pot. And he made up some fine ground Turkish coffee.

Fuel Stops on our Great Northwestern Trek

The first fuel stop was in Redding, at Safeway, and it was starting to get uncomfortably warm. This was our first encounter with folks asking about our trek. And at this point, our destination was much more impressive than our travels so far.

Enes rode to a fuel pump that was blocked by a cone, inserted his card to start the pump, and then realized the hose was not connected. When he tried to scan the card at a different pump his bank locked the card. We ended up putting his fuel on my card until he could get things settled with his bank.

Crossing Lake Shasta it was disappointing to see it so low. But there was still considerable snow on Mount Shasta so there was still hope for a boating season.

The north side of Siskiyou Pass was one lane and traffic was moving painfully slowly. Even at that altitude, it was very warm so I finally gave up and shut the bike down, and coasted along with the crawling traffic.

A fuel stop in Central Point, at Costco, to fuel the bikes and a lunch stop at Mary’s BBQ Place provided a great pulled pork sandwich to fuel me into Eugene. This fuel stop was not without incident as the attendant helping Enes hit the regular fuel button. She told him, “No problem I’ll just cancel it and restart with premium.” He growled, “Better not lock my card again.” Luckily the card worked this time.

We would need one more stop just north of Roseburg, to stretch and enjoy a cup of Enes’s magic brew before rolling into our stop for the night at my Mom’s in Eugene.

Day 2 – 06/10/22 Eugene, OR to Anacortes, WA

Planned Miles 365

Actual Miles 391

Day 2 began with a plan to enjoy a leisurely family breakfast and then continue on I-5 for a much shorter riding day, after the long day’s ride yesterday. The plan was to ride into Bellingham, Washington, and tackle the Canadian border on the morning of day three. This would get us in early and allow time to relax, get passports ready and pack the bikes before getting in line. This was also going to be the first night of camping.

Through Oregon and on to Washington

Just north of Salem the rain started and had no intention of relenting. Through Portland and Seattle, the traffic was heavy and the rain continued to increase in intensity.

Fuel, lunch, and coffee stops gave us the opportunity to assess the effectiveness of our rain gear. Enes was not fairing well. I had learned a few years earlier that even the best rain gear would fail if given enough rain and time. Mine was allowing a bit of puddling in the saddle area. Enes, unfortunately, was wearing the rain gear that had failed me years before in Nova Scotia. It would not make it to Alaska.

After six hours of riding in the rain, and three of those locked in traffic in Seattle, we bailed on the campground plans. We searched for an inexpensive motel nearby. We took advantage of a Lakewood, Washington Starbucks to find and contact Cap Sante Inn in Anacortes, Washington. Our primary objective: a dry night’s sleep. As we were loading up to leave the Starbucks I looked over to see Enes’s bike on its side. He was trying to step away from it. His foot had slipped just as he had lifted the side stand and down he went. Luckily no damage or injuries so good to go.

Anacortes has a nice little downtown area and the rain let up long enough for us to walk around. We had some good seafood at Adrift Restaurant, a benefit of being on a peninsula by the bay.

Even though this location left us about forty miles short of our planned stopping point, after the very long “short riding day,” we were happy to get some rest.

Day 3 – 06/11/22 Anacortes, WA to Clinton, BC

Planned Miles 260

Actual Miles 273 (1208)

Day 3, riding from Washington to British Columbia consisted of better weather, but the forecast was calling for more rain on our route. An assessment of the rain gear Enes had been using determined the seams on the pants had failed. Luckily there was a Cycle Gear in Bellingham and he replaced the pants.

Better outfitted, rested, and in filtered sunshine, we headed for the Sumas border crossing. The anticipated wait turned into a five-minute express trip and we were in beautiful British Columbia. Because of the long freeway ride the first day and the slow rain drenched plod the second day this was a breath of fresh air. It helped that the ride was still dry and the scenery was as amazing as ever. The mountains still had streaks of snow and the waterfalls were plentiful and flowing heavily. Later when viewing the photos from the day I realized there was just no way to capture the true beauty of the area because the photos don’t depict the surrounding natural scenery.

Lunch Stop in Hope

We planned a lunch stop at Rolley’s in Hope, but we crossed the border so quickly it turned into a late breakfast. Rolley’s is a hot spot and this particular morning it had attracted a number of touring motorcyclists. We saw all makes and models of bikes, all loaded similarly to ours. We would become used to seeing this scenario as we traveled on and we would soon find ourselves running into the same bikes repeatedly.

After brunch and fuel, $8.85 CAD per gallon, we headed due north on Hwy 1 and then took the lesser traveled Hwy 12 into Lillooet. Not the most direct route but that was the plan. Just before the turn onto Hwy 12, we came to the town of Lytton, which completely burned. Looking at the difference between the lively town on Google Maps compared to its current state was shocking and depressing. The beauty of Hwy 12 as it slices through breathtaking scenery helped. Additionally, there was abundant wildlife along the sides of the asphalt that required your attention. We were encouraged to stop at a safe distance to observe and maybe photograph. Luckily for us, most of the rain remained to the west of us. We only had occasional showers to contend with.

We planned to stop for the night at Fraser Cove Campground just north of Lillooet. But we were enjoying the riding so much that we decided to continue on to Clinton. Riding into heavy rains as we neared Clinton, we opted for another motel rather than a campground. The rain continued so we were glad to find a room and restaurant at the Cariboo Lodge, where we ended Day 3: Washington to British Columbia.

Day 4 – 06/12/22 Clinton, B.C. to Prince George B.C.

Planned Miles 247

Actual Miles 260 (1468)

On day 4 in British Columbia, we woke to rain so rather than loading up the bikes and getting an early start we opted for breakfast at the hotel instead of a later stop. It worked out well as the rain broke concurrent with finishing breakfast, allowing us to load the bikes. We geared up for a wet ride because both the forecast and the sky indicated more rain off and on throughout the ride, but it just seemed to increase the flora and fauna. All through British Columbia the area next to roads is cleared for several yards. The purpose is probably related to snow removal but it provides a much better buffer for seeing wildlife near the roadway. Makes it much safer and allows viewing from a greater distance.

Though much of the scenery appears repetitive, it is spectacular and you never know what is just around the bend or just beyond the treeline. We had a moose cross the highway in front of us. I caught it on video but the pictures were a bit blurry due to rain on the lens. Need a wee little wiper for the lens.

Prince George appeared to be a town teetering between redevelopment and retrogression. A break in the weather allowed an evening walk to find a good restaurant (Nancy O’s) in one of the improved sections which provided great food and a chance to enjoy the improved conditions. We stayed at the Travelodge which was convenient to the downtown restaurants, clean, friendly, and inexpensive. They also have covered parking in a well-lit and monitored garage, which was nice for unloading and loading the bikes. Thus, we ended Great Northwestern Trek – Day 4: British Columbia at the Travelodge in Prince George.

Day 5/Day 6 – 6/13/22-6/14/22 Prince George B.C. to Fort St. John B.C.

Planned Miles 271

Actual Miles 308 (1776)

Days 5 & 6 in British Columbia consisted of a fairly dry day, finally. The thick forests are beginning to thin a bit, but the landscape is still great. You can see the mountains in the distance long before you start climbing into them. The sky seems to be forever. It’s nice seeing some white puffy clouds instead of moisture-laden dark clouds.

We saw our first bear today. But by the time we could get turned and cameras on, it had headed for the treeline.

We stopped for a lunch break in Chetwynd. They have more than 120 chainsaw carvings lining the highway as you transition through town. The idea for the carvings started in 1990 and then in 2005, they began an annual International Chainsaw Carving Championship. Our lunch stop at, Crazy Beans Bistro, was also unique. The bistro was in the public library and on the grounds of the community park, swimming pool, and water park. It was the hub of socialization in Chetwynd.

We started our travels on the Alaska Highway at Milepost 0 in Dawson Creek and rolled our way into Fort St. John. We planned a couple of nights to rest, hike, do some laundry and dry out gear from the previous days’ rains. When in Prince George we mentioned staying in Fort St. John to someone and they looked at us oddly. When we arrived we figured out why. Not much to see or do in Fort St. John. Rain ruined our hike the next day. We got rested and cleaned, but there wasn’t much to do or see otherwise. Then we restocked supplies at Canadian Tire (like a big Walmart). Also, the room was cheap.

Day 7 – 6/15/22 Fort St. John B.C. to Coal River B.C.

Planned Miles 460

Actual Miles 468 (2244)

Fort St. John to Coal River created a long ride on day 7. Our planned stop was Muncho Lake but the only facilities were extremely expensive so we opted to roll on to Coal River Services RV Park & Lodge, a 468-mile day with lots of road work. Got to the campground just after the restaurant had closed. They allowed us to order some food but had to eat it outside, on the picnic tables, since they had closed the seating area. This was the first real encounter with lots of mosquitoes so we had to eat quickly even covered in bug repellent.

They say there are two seasons up here, Winter and Construction. There was lots of road construction on this stretch. One of the construction areas had just dumped a load of softball size rocks onto the road and both of us nearly went down. I was riding behind Enes when the back end of his bike went sideways. As I was getting ready to stop and help him pick it up my front end bounced about a foot to the right. I was sure I was going down but somehow we both rode it through. Later during a stop, we both realized the dirt biking course we had taken in 2020 helped us to ride them through and stay upright. Thankful for the training.

Meeting Interesting People on our Great Northwestern Trek

Near Fort Nelson, we met a group riding from Hildago, Mexico. They make the ride every three years but only a few of them were regulars, most were first-timers. They were a fun group with lots of stories. Their ride made our ride seem short in comparison, about half the distance actually. Just prior to Fort Nelson Enes’s rain jacket completely failed. Luckily there was an outfitter (CMP Sports) in Fort Nelson where, for a premium price, he was able to replace it.

Seeing Interesting Wildlife on our Great Northwestern Trek

Today was a wildlife day with more bears, moose, mountain sheep, and red foxes. The bear we were able to photograph had a missing front paw. He most likely had encountered a trap at one point. Additionally, we encountered a whole herd of bison in the roadway. It was a bit unnerving weaving the bikes between animals known to charge automobiles. No issues and we continued on to Coal River on the ever-worsening Alaska Highway.

Day 8 – 6/16/22 Coal River B.C. to Whitehorse, Yukon

Planned Miles 360

Actual Miles 366 (2610)

On day 8 we took the road between Coal River and Whitehorse, which grew steadily worse. There were more potholes and it got even worse with the frost heave. The potholes you could generally see and possibly avoid, at least the biggest of them. But the frost heave was often hard to discern. You would suddenly be airborne as the pavement dropped a few inches or worse, hitting a lip that felt as though it would fracture the front rim. I will give credit to the highway departments in both Canada and the U.S. for trying to mark the frost heave sections. They use paint and mark gravel sections with signs. This is the section of road I told Enes I felt like I was “learning to dance on a Harley.”

Pitfalls of Riding in the Wilderness during the Great Northwestern Trek

The gas station we planned to stop at closed, and we started to worry about making it to the next. We had our spare fuel but if the next planned stop wasn’t open we would not be able to continue. And of course, there was no cell service.

As we made our first crossing into the Yukon (you cross in and out three times), the flora is diminishing. Dead stick trees and small ponds, in areas that would be frozen tundra in winter, are not as pretty as those in lower B.C.

In Watson Lake, we stopped for fuel and then visited the Sign Post Forest. This human-made attraction is quite a marvel. It could consume a large part of your day if you were to try and take it all in. A U.S. soldier, working on the highway project, erected a sign to his hometown of Danville, IL. This started the forest in 1942. Others followed suit and today there are more than 77,000 signs in the forest.

We continued on, “dancing on the highway” to Whitehorse. We had a fine and very filling dinner at Klondike Rib and Salmon. And we were thankful to find a warm, dry cabin at Pioneer RV Park.

I told Enes that I definitely felt tired, as we were settling in for the night. And I said the road conditions were distressing, and I missed home. Enes looked over and said, “We need our wives to better supervise us when we come up with these great ideas.” It gave me a much-needed laugh and reminded me we did indeed choose these troubles.

Travel: the word Travel comes from Middle English travailen, travelen which means to torment, labor, strive, or journey.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary

Day 9 – 6/17/22 Whitehorse, Yukon

Planned Miles 0

Actual Miles 0

Whitehorse is where we had planned to do some hiking but ended up staying in the Whitehorse area. Whitehorse is the capital of the Yukon Territory and is home to most of the Yukon population. Though the city encompasses less than one percent of the Yukon’s total area of the Yukon it is home to over seventy percent of the territory’s population. Being the hub of activity for many miles in all directions Whitehorse has developed great walking paths, parks, and attractions along the riverfront. We visited the S.S. Klondike, a stern-wheeler that ran freight along the Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City in the early 1900s. This attraction provides great information on the successes and failures of operating along the often-turbulent Yukon River. At the time we visited, the river was very swollen, and all boating was suspended.

In addition to the many restaurants and walking trails along the river, there is a large park with a water park. A waterpark seemed strange, being in the freezing Yukon. But the day was gorgeous and warm so kids were playing in the water features while adults were setting up picnics and enjoying the weather. It was only in the mid-70s but seemed much warmer. A phenomenon that would repeat itself in Anchorage. If we had additional time in the area I would have enjoyed some of the hiking trails. It appeared that even a short hike would provide enough elevation to get a birdseye view of the town.

We also located the postal service so Enes could return the room key to Coal River Lodge. Seems we packed it rather than returning it. Oops.

Day 10 – 6/18/22 Whitehorse, Yukon to Tok, AK

Planned Miles 390

Actual Miles 401 (3011)

Riding from Whitehorse, Yukon to Tok, AK involved more rough road frost heave, gravel, and potholes. We had more dancing on the machines and imagining how harsh this area is in the winter.

“Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the trip.”

– Babs Hoffman

Riding peacefully, as peaceful as you can on a rough road, enjoying some sunshine and near empty roads when we spotted a moose and calf crossing the road into one of the many ponds along the highway and into the brush beyond.

Our next stop, for fuel and food, was Destruction Bay, named following a wind storm in 1942 that blew down all the buildings erected by the military to support the highway construction.

Wildlife Encounters

Not long after leaving Destruction Bay on another lonely stretch of road (there are many) we came upon a mama bear and her cub on the road. Enes was able to get a great video of them deciding whether to cross or retreat. We gave them plenty of room and they finally crossed.

We stopped for gas, restroom, and snacks in Beaver Creek, the last town in Canada, before entering Alaska. The 1202 Motor Inn and FasGas is a great little stop for fuel and a coffee. Also the only place in the area for those services.

There are approximately 23 miles between the Canadian customs and the U.S. Customs station, kind of a no man’s land. U.S. Customs is single lane and they seemed to be very concerned about every vehicle. It was very slow-going but finally, we were in Alaska with about 100 miles to our night’s stop.

As we got further into Alaska the mountains moved closer to the roadway and trees and wildlife seemed to return. We continued to ride in and out of rain showers but the most impressive was watching the rain off to the sides of the road which appeared like huge dark draperies. The temperature was getting colder as we climbed into the mountains.

Rolled into Tok (Toke) where we had a planned night at Thompson’s Eagle Claw Motorcycle Park. This is a very primitive campground that is specifically for motorcyclists. The campground is nicely maintained and the people are very friendly, but primitive means no showers and pit toilets. Mosquitoes attacked worse here so far; so, we had to break out the nets even while sitting around the fire, chatting with other riders.

Day 11 – 6/19/22 Tok, AK

Planned Miles 160

Actual Miles 149 (3477)

On day 11, we stayed an extra night in Tok since 1) we were ahead of schedule and 2) it is cheaper than staying in Anchorage, which is our next destination.

We took the opportunity to ride back toward the Canadian border on Taylor Hwy (aka Top of the World Hwy). The weather turned bad and with snow along the side of the road, we decided to turn around short of Chicken, Alaska. This area is a bit more scenic than the Alaska Hwy, and we had an opportunity for more moose sightings.

On our trip, we encountered a few bicyclists along the highways. But I was extremely impressed by those on the Taylor Highway. Not only was the steep grade a difficulty but the temperatures and unpredictable weather made the trek even more risky. The fact most were traveling alone in an area with sparse and widely spaced facilities made me wonder if they were just hardy or fool-hardy. I didn’t ask but I’m sure even Enes, who’s a hardcore bicyclist, questioned their wisdom.

Food Scarcity and Decisions

Rather than going to one of the few local restaurants we stopped at Three Bears Alaska to get some take-out before returning to camp, at Thompson’s Eagle Claw Motorcycle Park. Sitting around the campfire we tore into a prepared chicken, rolls, and some fresh veggies. We battled the mosquitoes successfully, but black fleas ate Enes’s ankles alive.

I considered partaking in the wood-fired sauna but was just too tired and ready for a good night’s sleep. Instead I curled up in my mummy bag so could be up early and ready to roll toward Anchorage.

After enduring the mosquitoes in Tok and completing our trek to Tok Alaska, we now understand why the people of Alaska refer to the mosquito as its State Bird.

Day 12 – 6/20/22 Tok, AK to Palmer, AK

Planned Miles 275

Actual Miles 317 (3477)

Still in Tok, it rained hard on us all night but let up long enough in the morning for us to load our gear, get some breakfast, and hit the road.

Trials and Tribulations of the Great Northwestern Trek Road

It was a cold, wet ride as we continued to climb into the mountain passes. And my heated gloves had quit working. I was hoping it was just a fuse but turned out to be a broken wire (still repairable).

Even though the Alaska Hwy had improved after crossing the border there were still very rough patches. Frost heaves and potholes mired the road. It was in one of these sections that a trailer with a backhoe, we were following, hit some of the deep ruts. The trailer hit hard enough to sheer off an axle. The tire and wheel went bouncing on the highway in front of us. Fortunately, Enes and I were following far enough behind to just watch the tire finally disappear over the edge of the road. As we rode on I thought about how remote things were and that it would take at least a day to get another trailer out to take the backhoe to its destination. It also made me consider how important it was to ensure my bike was well-maintained. Thank you, Sam and the team at Vacaville V-Twin.

Stormy Skies Ahead

We stopped to add rain gear near a pond circled in the snow – had to have that photo. And then a few miles further down the road, about midway between Glennallen and Palmer, the ride is along the Matanuska River, which makes every mile a photo op. This is also where we see our first glacier up close. Took a break to view and photograph the Matanuska Glacier.

Arrived in Palmer for a night, at the Valley Hotel. We met some performers as Palmer was hosting The Alaska Scottish Games the coming weekend. The performers were two sets of twins. Both Enes and I did a double take, thinking we were both overly tired and seeing double. Had a short chat about our travels since they were also motorcyclists.

My body is starting to complain a bit. But as hard as today was, we did come away with interesting stories of our ride from Tok to Palmer.

Day 13 – 6/21/22 Palmer, AK to Anchorage, AK

Planned Miles 46

Actual Miles 54 (3531)

After a good night’s rest in Palmer, we continued along the Matanuska River for a few more miles before turning south and crossing it as we entered Anchorage. This section of the road twisted a little more so it became a very enjoyable ride in warm sunshine. As we wound our way along the river at the base of the Pinnacle Mountain area I fell into a mellow groove as I rolled the bike back and forth through the corners. I didn’t even register, at the time, the roads were getting better allowing me to relax in the saddle.

Civilization after Desolation

We rolled into Anchorage with 3531 on the trip odometer, weird to see a tall building and wide multi-lane roads with lots of traffic. Enes noted, this was the halfway point for the Harleys since the trip to Deadhorse and back would be on rental adventure bikes from MotoQuest.

Since the trip from Palmer was short, we took the time to ride around Anchorage to get familiar. We then decided to stop by MotoQuest and House of Harley-Davidson. We wanted to ensure we knew exactly where they were located. And we wanted to take care of any paperwork issues in advance.

With that completed, we headed to our accommodations for the night, Alex Hotel. The Alex was undergoing renovations. So, it was a little noisy, but it is located near the downtown for easy access to restaurants.

After checking into our hotel, we went in search of dinner and ended up at Capri Pizza. Tomorrow we will drop the Harleys for service. Then we’ll pick up the adventure bikes from MotoQuest for the trek to Prudhoe Bay.

When we return to Anchorage, I will meet my wife and take a break from the ride for a week. You can read more about that in the series she wrote about our week.

Day 14 – 6/22/22 Anchorage, AK to Fairbanks, AK

Planned Miles 360

Actual Miles 381 (3912)

We got up early to pick up the adventure bikes and start our final journey north. MotoQuest has a good selection of bikes and a great staff to assist. They also held the additional gear we were not taking with us to Prudhoe Bay. After procuring the rentals we went next door to House of Harley-Davidson to drop our Harleys. They agreed to service and then store our bikes until we return. Since Terri is coming for a week they are holding mine for an extra week while we tour by rental car.

Adventure Bikes vs. Harleys

The Adventure bikes are a very different ride, Enes got a BMW GS750 and I got a V-Strom 650, and we soon realized how much more comfortable our Harleys were. The ride north on Hwy 3 through Denali was another level of beauty. No matter which way you looked there were towering mountains, many still snow-capped. Sadly on the ride north, Denali was not visible. I heard later only about thirty percent of tourists actually get to see the mountain because of the weather.

Since the saddles of the Advs were not very comfortable and we were not used to them we had to take stretch breaks more often but there was always something to see at every stop. There are also lots of mosquitoes. At one of our stretch stops a car turned around to check to see if everything was alright (very friendly). Enes told them, “Just a sore butt” and the guy straight-faced replied, “Can’t help you with that.” They waved and drove off, leaving us laughing by the roadside.

Scarce Fuel

Our planned fuel stop was closed and appeared to have been that way for some time. We were a little concerned because our limit for fuel was approaching (we still had our spare so not too concerning). When a couple of other riders pulled up with the same panicked look I pulled out the GPS to see if there were options. It showed a station just up the road so we all headed north with great hope. A couple of miles later we found a brand new Vitus station. This is probably why the other station was no longer in business.

We got to our stop for the night, Northern Sky Lodge, to find there was no power. They had no idea when power would return. We unloaded the bikes and then rode into Fairbanks for dinner at the Pump House Restaurant. I had the Elk meatloaf, the best road meal so far.

The power was on when we returned so we showered and packed for an early start the next morning.

Day 15 – 6/23/22 Fairbanks, AK to Coldfoot, AK

Planned Miles 254

Actual Miles 286 (4198)

We began riding the Dalton Hwy (Ice Road) after a rough start in Fairbanks, getting lost due to road construction and circling until we found the correct route. The pavement ends when the Dalton begins and eventually the gravel at the start turns to calcium-laced clay, which when wet is like grease. Unlike the roads we’d traveled so far, asphalt with occasional gravel, the Dalton was gravel with occasional patches of asphalt.

It was hard to stop and get photos, food, gas, or anything else because of the mosquitoes. Often I would just leave my helmet on with the visor down, watching them swarm.

We continued to enjoy the mountains in all directions, some with snow and others green with trees. The Dalton parallels and crisscrosses the pipeline and after several miles, and seeing the terrain conditions, I gained a greater appreciation for the work that went into building that marvel.

Between Fairbanks and Deadhorse there are only two fuel points so fuel conservation (and a spare fuel can) are important. Just before the first fuel and food stop at Yukon River Camp we crossed our first wooden bridge. The E.L. Patton Yukon River Bridge was built to provide a permanent crossing of the Yukon River to support the completion of the pipeline. It is also the only bridge crossing the Yukon River in Alaska.

Encountering the Impacts of Wildfires on this Great Northwestern Trek Segment

As we neared the Arctic Circle fires were clearly visible in the mountains on each side of the road. They were still a considerable distance from the road. So not a concern but our planned stop at the Arctic Circle crossing for a photo op was unavailable because fire crews were using the area for staging equipment and helicopter operations. Talking with some of the crews we found out there were over 500 active fires in Alaska. And it appeared in most cases they were just letting them burn unless they threatened the pipeline.

Finally, we rolled into Coldfoot Camp for food, fuel, and a well-deserved night’s sleep. Most of the folks at Coldfoot were motorcycle tourists but there were also several truckers stopping for the night. They’ve got to sleep even if it never gets dark. We were fortunate to chat with one of those truckers, also a motorcyclist, who provided great information on what to expect ahead and how best to negotiate construction, trucks, and most of all the water trucks making the surface wet and slick. The trick it seems is patience and politeness. If they see you they will take action to help ensure your safety.

“At the end of the day your feet should be dirty, your hair messy and your eyes sparkling.”

― Shanti

I’m not sure if our eyes were sparkling but we definitely covered the other two criteria on this leg of Fairbanks to Coldfoot.

Day 16 – 6/24/22 Coldfoot, AK to Deadhorse, AK

Planned Miles 231

Actual Miles 254 (4452)

This leg began our last stretch to the halfway point of our journey. This portion of the Dalton continues to parallel the pipeline and is by far the most desolate stretch. Services aren’t available until the destination. We road 241 miles, hoping the fuel, weather, and our mounts would hold up. Fortunately, it went well. The roads were mostly dry and in “decent” shape. Since we were near the end of the world on a road that is frozen most of the year and constantly pounded by truck tires, we were relieved. The Atigun Pass was wet with lots of snow along the edges but no ice or snow on the road. We, fortunately, didn’t encounter much traffic on the narrow, steep grades.

On the north side of the pass, the ice and snow along the sides of the road became thicker and more plentiful. And the air became noticeably colder. Normally adequate in very cold temperatures, my heated gloves were not adequate here. As we rolled into Deadhorse, I was freezing. Low on fuel, we went directly in search of the only facility available. Fuel there was a gobsmacking $8.08 per gallon, but you pay for the adventure.

Arriving at our accommodations for the night, Deadhorse Camp, we found the dining facility was closed for the evening. Hence, we had to go back into Deadhorse (3 miles) to find food, and we got to the Aurora Hotel just before they closed the dining for the night.

Ending the Great Northwestern Trek – Day 16: Coldfoot to Deadhorse and back at Deadhorse Camp, fed and tired, I toasted the achievement with a glass of The Macallan in a Deadhorse shot glass. A toast to the journey and a nod to Neil Peart.

Day 17 – 6/25/22 Deadhorse, AK to Coldfoot, AK

Planned Miles 231

Actual Miles 243 (4684)

Time to start the return trip, BUT FIRST…

We loaded up on an early morning shuttle to Prudhoe Bay and the Arctic Ocean. The final few miles to the ocean are across restricted oil field lands so the shuttle bus is a requirement. It was a sunny day so the air was reasonably warm, the water however had ice floating everywhere. Really not much to see other than snowy, barren land and lots of water. Imagine that. I did brave the cold to dip my feet in the water, I figured if you’re there you must enter the water and then joined a (very) few others to strip to my swim shorts and dive in, After a very brief swim I finished by stretching my towel on a chunk of ice and took a “sunbathing” photo. Then a brisk toweling and very warm clothing.

“Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”

– Neale Donald Walsch

As noted the day started warm and sunny so the first part of the trip back was very pleasant. The Antigun pass was over 165 miles from our starting point but you could clearly see the mountains on the horizon and continued to see them all the way to the start of our climb into the pass.

Again the pass was wet and cold with plenty of snow beside the road, I doubt that ever changes. At the top of the pass, there was a lone white Tesla which seemed strange in such an area. More on that tomorrow.

Hazardous Potholes on the Great Northwestern Trek

Took a coffee break by the side of the road, the wind was blowing enough to reduce the mosquitoes, so I put the drone in the air to get a few aerial shots. The weather was good the entire ride back to Coldfoot and the only bad areas were where they were watering the road, making it very slick, and the potholes which were large enough to swallow the tires of the bikes and didn’t seem to have a bottom.

Just a few miles from Coldfoot Enes ran out of fuel and for the first time in over 4500 miles, we had to break into the spare fuel containers.

At Coldfoot Camp we ended the Deadhorse to Coldfoot leg, where we met a group from Modesto that was also returning from Deadhorse. One of them told me they “weren’t from the asshole part of California.” I had to bite my tongue as I thought that seems like something an asshole would say. For the most part, the group was very friendly even though I may be from the wrong part of California.

Day 18 – 6/26/22 Coldfoot, AK to Fairbanks, AK

Planned Miles 254

Actual Miles 298 (4982)

Okay back to the white Tesla. As Enes and I were saddling up for the trip back to Fairbanks a young guy approached and asked if we were heading north or south. We told him we were going south and he asked if we had seen his car on the Antigun Pass. Seems our Tesla driver wanted to see if he could make it to Deadhorse and back in his EV. He had made it from Fairbanks to Coldfoot and then into Deadhorse, impressive. But on the way back from Deadhorse he had a flat. I thought, not a problem change the tire and go. He had decided to help ensure he had sufficient charge he would lighten the car by removing all non-essential items, like the spare tire.

Perils of the Dalton Highway

Just a note, every story on the Dalton Highway talks about how brutal it is on tires. So much so the motorcycle rental company has to change the tires on the bikes after each trip. He was waiting on a tow truck to go get the car, but the driver kept canceling even though the owner had agreed to the $3600 tow fee. Oops, live and learn.

Again another fair day but as we got closer to Fairbanks we noticed the fires had worsened and the air was thick with smoke. We did get an opportunity to stop and get a photo at the Arctic Circle this time.

We had to walk in and the mosquitoes were heavy even though the smoke was even heavier. By the time we arrived in Fairbanks, our eyes were burning and the air was thick and dark.

We ended the Coldfoot to Fairbanks leg in a smoke-filled Fairbanks, happy to be closer to Anchorage.

Day 19 – 6/27/22 Fairbanks, AK to Anchorage, AK

Planned Miles 360

Actual Miles 364 (5346)

In Anchorage, the air was a little better this morning, but the smoke still filtered the sun. It didn’t take long this morning before we were both tired of the motorcycle seats. At our fuel stop in Cantwell while conversing with other ADV riders we mentioned we were spoiled by our Harleys. One of the riders on a BMW 1250 GS showed us the Harley Davidson solo saddle he had modified to fit his ADV. We got a chuckle out of that but were also envious.

The rest of the ride to Anchorage was fairly uneventful other than a spectacular view of Denali with the sun making it glow. At this same photo stop, we ran into a couple we had met at the motorcycle camp in Tok. We continued our discussion from Tok updating each other on our travel and the amazing adventures we were experiencing.

Back in Anchorage, we checked into the Ingra House Hotel which was where Enes would be staying for the next week while Terri and I toured Denali and Kenai Fjords. The Ingra House is nothing special but it does have a kitchen and is convenient to Anchorage downtown. It was clean and secure, the staff was friendly and helpful and the price was affordable. They don’t have air conditioning, which in Alaska doesn’t seem like an issue but the room faced west and in the afternoon and evening sun it got rather warm. Since the evening sun lasts nearly all night that makes for a warm sleep. The room did have a fan and a refrigerator/freezer so we cooled the room by putting the fan in the open freezer.

A short walk into town brought us to Pho Lena Vietnamese Restaurant. They were nearing closing time but allowed us to sit and enjoy our meal while they prepared to close. The whole time they had K-LOVE blasting on the radio.

Great Northwestern Trek – D20 6/28/22 Day in Anchorage, AK

After a good night’s sleep, we rode back to MotoQuest to drop off the rental bikes. I headed to the airport to pick up the rental car. Terri and I would be using the car for the next week. Enes headed next door to pick up his Harley. They didn’t have his Harley done and were waiting on parts. So Enes and I drove to Wasilla to pick up the needed parts.

We dropped the parts off and then went to Kincaid Park for some hiking while they finished the work. When we returned, they were almost done so I dropped Enes off. And then I headed to the Hyatt House Anchorage to shower and shave. I had to get ready to pick Terri up at the airport. I ended Great Northwestern Trek – Day 19 & 20: Anchorage, painfully removing all the facial hair I acquired during the ride up.

Okay, it was a big mistake to not shave the entire trip.

After picking Terri up at the airport we had a nice dinner at Glacier Brewhouse and then headed back to the hotel to ready things for our week together.